Surf addict
surf passion light colors energy
Surfing with the ocean is not a goal, it is a guideline. It constantly pushes us out of the frame, but the paradox is that it always puts us in place, faced with ourselves, powerless.
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We fall, we learn, we seek ourselves through ourselves, but especially through the other
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We take risks, we travel the world, even alone. We feel protected. The ocean is our landmark, no matter where we are, a place awaits us.
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We are all destined for something unique. Only destiny knows our secret, which will be revealed through the foam of the days.
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Our shaper makes boards in the shade. But without him, we would never see that light, the light that makes us vibrate. In fact, surfing is only a means to touch the water, again and again...
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Naturally, we like to appropriate space, but, is it really up to us?
